Jason Wu's fourth collection for BOSS Womenswear looks to the Bauhaus movement for inspiration.
The Bauhaus mantra – that form must follow function – has always been embedded within the BOSS Womenswear school of pared-down cool. This season, the Bauhaus was brought to the foreground and onto the set of the show. Moving the Spring/Summer 2016 BOSS Womenswear fashion show from its previous seasons’ Wall Street home to a more uptown address on Park Avenue also seemed to reflect a shift in mood for Jason Wu, artistic director of the house.
Strong graphics on the set were a nod towards constructivism, and the influence of the art of Bauhaus on Wu's looser and more feminine fourth collection for BOSS Womenswear was strongly felt. Two themes ran through the polished looks – one centred on fringe and the other on pleating – all the while infused with the same high modernist references in colour and shape.
Fringing, soft with movement, ran along the trim of a jacket, as well as being intricately beaded throughout a dress that swayed with every step.Pleated organza dresses animated Wu's strong sense of colour (the primary yellow, red and blue linked to Bauhaus design, of course), all airy and light and perfect for those spring evenings. Whereas in previous seasons Wu has played with fabric and texture innovation, this time, he introduced a deconstructed floral motif on dresses – the feminine and modern black-and-white graphic providing an almost playful charm, reinforcing a real sense of fluidity and softness throughout, which remained very feminine. Bauhaus’s other maxim was that ‘Ornament is Sin’. Well, if that was the case, Wu sinned a little but to great effect. These ornamental elements were used with subtlety and sure-handedness, but with profound effect on the whole.
Not only was this collection a story of chic, versatile pieces that will make any woman look and feel her best, the bags and shoes also stood out. The Bespoke bag in particular was reworked in a patchwork of colours while sure-to-be hit shoes of the season had heels in clear resin with inlaid wood, a clear reflection of the embedded new codes Wu has defined as artistic director – an example that couldn't be any more literal of the natural versus industrial conversation he’s been having for four seasons now.
BOSS womenswear has quickly drawn in the stars with a front row featuring Dylan Penn, Lupita Nyong’o, Yao Chen and Hung Huang. Coupled with Nicole Kidman recently pictured on the red carpet wearing a beautifully cut midnight blue tuxedo, what was previously thought of as a daywear brand has quickly established its evening ambitions. IfWu’s final three looks are anything to go by (a beautiful play on tuxedo dressing), I have no doubt we’ll be seeing more and more BOSS Womenswear, both on the red carpet and on the sidewalks around the world.